Bakers’ delights
Cream-filled, flaky or with custard in the middle? The Danish capital’s pastry scene covers all bases, writes Tatyana Leonov.
As my teeth sink into the buttery creation, flakes of pastry cascade down my front and bury themselves in the wool of my jumper. I lick my fingertips and ignore my self-consciousness as I bite into the sugar-soaked berry centre, causing it to creep out of its golden case. My daughter is going to notice what I’m eating soon and ask for a bite, so I need to be quick.
To be fair, she’s had two pastries today already. We’re in Copenhagen, the city of Danish pastries. I warned her that indulging in too many pastries in a day might make her feel sick, but my husband contradicts this – he’s on his fourth pastry and practically skipping along.
I’m savouring the very pastry I had been eagerly anticipating in Denmark. It’s made of layered yeasted dough that has been repeatedly smothered with butter and folded over itself, and with a gooey ball of custard at its centre. But on reflection, that’s only because it’s the only Danish pastry I know.
My first ‘‘Danish pastry’’ in Copenhagen is referred to as wienerbrod by locals, which means Vienna bread. Austrian bakers introduced this baking method and pastry style to Danish bakers, and while most of the rest of the world commonly refer to this style of pastry as a Danish pastry, here the reference is to its true origin.
Or so I’ve been told. When we stop in at Bageriet Benji, pastry chef Rasmus Sjodahl tells me that locals also call this style of pastry a spandauer after a German prison. Some sources suggest it might stem from the pastry’s shape, which supposedly ‘‘traps’’ the custard or jam filling on the inside.
Sjodahl transitioned into baking when he was craving change, having looked after the sourdough bread at the award-winning restaurant Noma for two years.
‘‘Denmark has been a dairy and grain-producing country for centuries, and we’ve long been known for our high-quality dairy and flour,’’ Sjodahl says. ‘‘In recent times, many former chefs like myself have ventured into the bakery world. I’ve been immersed in bread-making for five years now, and my own bakery has flourished since we opened three years ago.’’
In Copenhagen, the pastry scene is buzzy and there’s a distinct charm that I can’t quite put my finger on. Sjodahl attributes it to a blend of factors: ‘‘We’re blessed with high-quality ingredients, a culture deeply rooted in Danish ‘hygge’ – emphasising cosiness and comfort – and, more recently, Danish chefs who are unafraid to push boundaries and embrace experimentation.’’
My little family commits to a pastry adventure, exploring both renowned favourites and charming, lesser-known bakeries. We all try the famous cinnamon buns from the city’s oldest bakery, Sankt Peders Straede, and leave with sticky fingers and big sugary smiles.
There are also cream-filled buns and buttery cakes, sugary sweets and flaky things. And we venture to Arhusgade near Osterbro to finish with another ex-Noma chef’s creation. Swedish-born Emil Glaser opened Juno in 2017, bringing the beloved cardamom rolls from his childhood to the Danish bakery scene but with his own twist. As we wait in line, the unmistakable scent of cardamom snakes its way through the queue, as if on purpose.
I call time-out after we indulge yet again, but there’s a bakery close by with an interesting backstory. So we make our way to Galst Bageri for just one more bite. Located in Osterbro, behind the football stadium, Galst Bageri was opened by Erik Galst, who worked as an accountant for 32 years before opting for a change. When the pandemic turned the world upside down, he decided to bake bread for his son’s soccer club, setting up shop in the club’s kitchen with four ovens. Galst opened his all-organic bakery to the public in 2020, and three years on business is booming.
Now that we’re here, there’s no turning back. We hop in line, surrounded by locals, debating among ourselves whether to buy a sourdough loaf to share or surrender to the temptation of yet another sweet treat.
The writer travelled at her own expense.
THE DETAILS
FLY
Singapore Airlines operates numerous daily flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Singapore, with connections to Copenhagen five times a week. See singaporeair.com
STAY
The Andersen hotel has a central location with bright rooms and fun furnishings that make you smile (including giant teddy bears in the common lounge area). Friendly service, a great breakfast buffet, and thoughtful extras seal the deal. Rooms from DK1095 ($245) a night. See andersen-hotel.dk
