Tokyo: Old and New

Living history and modernity in splendid lockstep.

Two women dressed in silk kimonos glide over the pebble walkway in Hama-rikyu Gardens, their dancing silhouettes casting exaggerated shadows in the afternoon sun.

Their bright flower-embellished kimonos stand out against the deep green of the pine trees and if it weren’t for the skyscrapers of Shiodome in the background, you could well be in a different era.

The women are heading towards a centuries-old tea house that sits overlooking Shioiri Pond. Here they will drink matcha tea and eat wagashi – a tradition known as sado that stretches back hundreds of years.

Although Tokyo is a modern, buzzing metropolis, it’s not uncommon to find patches of yesteryear entwined in today’s city. At Hama-rikyu Gardens, there’s a sense of travelling back in time; so too at shrines and temples that date to the Edo Period. Traditional homes and shop fronts maintain their old-world charm and art forms such as calligraphy and sumo wrestling are sustained and supported today.

These historical sights and experiences sit side by side with looming skyscrapers, high-tech superstores, games arcades and cutting-edge boutiques. It’s a perfect representation of Tokyo today – traditional and modern in lockstep.

A few kilometres from Hama-rikyuweare met with a completely different scene. Here, hundreds of people are waiting at Shibuya Crossing. A group of Harajuku girls dressed in decorative Lolita-style costumes giggle with one another. Businessmen check emails on their phones. School children huddle together. Tourists get their cameras ready. Groups of friends and families mill around.

As the lights flash green the human swarm spills over the intersection, people moving left, right and centre like busy working ants. It’s frenetic, yet so remarkably orderly. Music blankets the crossing from speakers set high above; flashing neon billboards promote the message of the moment and people scurry in all directions.

It’s a beautiful and busy scene amplified by the sheer quantity of goings-on.

Although the Hama-rikyu Gardens and Shibuya Crossing scenes vastly differ, both depict the Tokyo of today–a city that embraces its rich history and strides forward with a strong sense of identity.

This sense of old and new can be found everywhere. For a dose of old-world charm, Meiji Jingu is one of Japan’s most important shrines, sitting in a 70-hectare forest that feels a world away from the chaos of city life. Stroll along the gravel pathway until you reach the huge torii gate, then enter the shrine and join locals as they cleanse themselves in water and make offerings.

Just outside the park you’ll find Harajuku, where Takeshita Street and its connecting laneways make for some of the most interesting shopping and people-watching in the city.

This is Tokyo’s pop culture hub and the place to see youth sporting bizarre and beautiful fashion. Join the crowd perusing the boutique shops, then take a break at one of many cafes here or buy a sweet crepe to enjoy street side.

For a serene escape to another era, Yanaka is a well-maintained district that is resonant of Tokyo’s former days. Streets here are dotted with ancient temples and shrines, and some historic wooden houses have been transformed into art galleries, boutiques and minimalist cafes. Yanaka is a subtle fusion of old and new, where the old leads the way and the new is woven into the story. Rent a bike to explore or stroll and soak up the charming vibe.

Yanaka Ginza is the main shopping street here. For authentic snacks and beer, join the locals sitting on old milk crates clustered together.

Dining in Tokyo is a big highlight and given the plethora of foodie options you’d have to stay for months to sample it all. The sushi, of course, is the best in the world. Ramen, udon, yakitori and tempura are well known and loved options. Interestingly, some of these foods are fairly modern creations – another nod to old and new.

A great place to try traditional street food is Asakusa, or the heart of old Tokyo as it’s often referred to. Here you can sample ningyo-yakis (red bean paste-filled sweet cakes), kaminari-okoshis (rice crisps that come in a variety of flavours) and imoyokans (jelly-like dessert pieces made from sweet potato paste) as well as shop for traditional souvenirs.

If you’re after ornate chopsticks, traditional stationery or hand-made kimonos, you’ll probably find it in Asakusa at small stores on Nakamise Shopping Street –a bustling thoroughfare located between the Kaminarimon and Hozomon gates of Senso-ji Temple.

This beautiful ancient Buddhist temple is Tokyo’s oldest and no visit to Asakusa would be complete without stopping by.

Founded in 628, the temple has been rebuilt many times, however its powerful essence remains. Its bright red five-storey pagoda is the second highest in the country and appears in many visitor photographs.

Asakusa is across the river from Japan’s tallest tower, the 634-metre Tokyo Skytree. Towers are synonymous with modern-day Tokyo, so to get a sense of just how vast this vibrant city is, journey up to Skytree’s observation decks for magnificent 360-degree views.

From this height the view is dominated by the glass, chrome and neon of now, but dig a little deeper and you’ll see that the timber and terracotta of yesteryear are right there too.