Sand & Snow

WANT TO SKI ONE DAY AND SURF THE NEXT? THE GOLDEN STATE HAS YOU COVERED 

When I think of California, snow-dusted pine trees and mountains perfect for gliding down isn’t usually my first thought. For many – myself included – it’s all about sun-drenched beaches and the image of David Hasselhoff and his mates from Baywatch jogging in slow-mo.

So when I found out that the skiing is top notch too, I wanted to see if it were possible to fit both activities into one holiday–rugging up to hit the slopes one day, then basking in the sun while enjoying the sand and waves the next.

The truth is, in California you could surf and ski in the same day – if you’re an adventurous type who doesn’t mind rising early to travel. I decide to spread out the activities over two days, giving myself time to enjoy each escapade, but still get the brag factor in… because having snow photos on Instagram one day and surf shots the next – well, it makes for an interesting conversation.

Mammoth Mountain’s claim to fame is having one of the biggest ski terrains in California, with runs spread out over 1,400ha. The resort also has one of the longest running seasons in the US, and the sun shines (on average) 300 days per year – so as destinations go, it’s a top choice for snow bunnies.

My one day at the ski resort is all about making the most of the knee-deep powder, so as soon as the lifts are open it’s all systems go. Mammoth Mountain (like the name suggests) is a huge slice of snow paradise, with a 28-lift system that whooshes visitors up to the highest peaks, from where they skyrocket down only to do it all again and again and again.

I start slow, tackling the green runs to remind myself that I can ski, then move on to the blue runs, which keep me busy all day. Beginners and pros alike have ample green and black runs to navigate, but intermediates get the best coverage with plenty of blue runs that weave their way down and around the slopes. I know that tomorrow I’ll be tackling waves instead of mountains, so I squeeze the most out of my time and opt for a quick cafeteria lunch instead of a lavish sit-down affair.

I do the same in San Diego the next day, chuffing down fish tacos a little too hastily so I can spend most of my time playing in the water. It takes a little over six hours to drive from Mammoth Lakes to San Diego; alternatively you can fly via Los Angeles. Either way, if you’re committed you can certainly ski one day and surf the next.

I’ve tried my hand at surfing before, negotiating long smooth breaks in Byron Bay, tackling bigger waves on Sydney’s Northern Beaches, and even braving the surf in Hawaii – but I've never attempted stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) until now.

San Diego has close to 115km of open ocean coastline, so whatever your surf style (or lack thereof), you’ll find a break to suit. Since I’m a beginner, the diversity of small breaks at La Jolla Shores makes for perfect conditions. Of course, the backdrop helps (La Jolla is one of the prettiest beaches in town, with long stretches of soft sand and plenty of sheltered coves), and this is where twin sisters Izzy and Coco of Surf Diva, along with their energetic team, teach folk like myself how to surf and SUP.

I’ve had my share of surfing lessons and have noticed that the teachers tend to be passionate and outgoing, and predictably so: they’re out in the water sharing what they love, usually with a motivated bunch of people keen to listen and learn. Izzy, however, is the most intense and glamorous teacher I’ve ever come across. Her wild blonde hair whips in all directions when the wind picks up; she laughs contagiously and often; and her energy encourages the whole class to get in the water and play.

And so we do. Of course, first we are walked through safety procedures and taught how to paddle in and move from our knees to our feet in the water, but when it’s time to hit the waves no one hesitates and we’re in quickly, splashing, paddling, some from the group even making it up onto their feet on the first go.

After a couple of attempts, I too manage to yank myself up from my knees to my feet (the trick is to keep paddling) and find myself upright, skimming the tops of the waves staring out at the horizon. A few from the group appear beside me, also on their feet, and soon there’s a cluster of us sporting childish grins that stretch from ear to ear.

Izzy notices that we’re all upright, but clearly that’s not enough for her. “I’m going to teach you how to do the downward-facing dog on your boards,” she shouts so everyone can hear her. “And then we can attempt some more complicated positions for those who are keen.”

I snicker at the prospect of being able to bend myself into even the most basic of yoga positions, but then remember that only yesterday I was skiing and today I learned how to SUP. So I follow Izzy’s instructions slowly, trying hard not to tumble off my board.

I fall off again and again, but it doesn’t even matter. Each time I tumble into the water I remind myself that yesterday I was whizzing down snow-white mountains and today I’m attempting yoga on a paddleboard… who knows what tomorrow in California will bring.